Four days round Mull in June
A fascination with Mull started with its special history and led to the need to explore its coast, which is huge ,varied and craggy .I had to explore it and the best way was by kayak.
A view of Kerrera with Mull and Lismore in the distance
After camping at the delightful Gallanachmore campsite south of Oban I launched at the nearby Puffin dive centre and paddled solo up the sound of Kerrara in hot sun and calm conditions
Conditions were as flat as a millpond except when the odd speedboat passed, I really wanted some wind to try my new sail! Heading toward Oban harbour a dive boat came strait for me at 30 knots , I was scared ,had they seen me or not ? Yes they had seen me ! In Oban harbour the water was still very calm with no wind !
Paddling out of Oban harbour about 2pm many sailing boats under power passed me on the way to Mull as the waves grew bigger .It felt like a race ,I could almost keep up with them.The scenery was getting more spectacular.My new crank paddle was very comfortable and more efficient than my old strait paddle
Ferries passed frequently and it was necessary to steer clear of them to avoid the wash .Passing the south end of Lismore a tide race was noticeable and a welcome change ! The currents here run up to two knots at springs.The beautiful Lady Rock lighthouse is always worth a picture,I have been to this area before on a ferry
Continuing up the Sound of Mull and passing Craignure the wind and waves and tide are against me and I struggle!The wind and waves are pushing the stern round . My speed on the gps drops to two knots sometimes less. The problem with this kayak is it has no rudder or skeg so its only possible to turn using the paddle .I found my right arm getting very tired Then and there I decided to upgrade this boat for a more sophisticated glass fibre one on returning home
Tobermory at ten pm
Paddling up the sound of Mull is challenging as there are few places to land and camp easily, ie no sandy beaches .So I continued to Tobermory .Arriving there at 10pm I found a small island with spots to land and camp. There was a deserted cottage so I camped in the front garden ! The distance I had covered was 28 miles so I needed a good rest,I was tired and still had to cook
My gps log, the first day
My kayak trolley had a puncture making it very difficult to move the kayak on beaches so next day I go into Tobermory garage for a puncture repair .Unfortunately they couldnt help so it was a case of struggle on !
In Tobermory harbour
my speed was only about two knots.The scenery became more interesting with real steep cliffs and beautiful castles .There were no sailing or other boats to keep me company so I felt very alone .My next destination was Calgary in the north , a shorter paddle , however its an exposed coast and the wind and waves were against me or from the side most of the time so although only paddling eighteen miles it was hard work all the time
The beautiful Dunbeg castle
Arriving at Calgary at nine pm the beach was white coral sand with dunes and Machair ,a few houses and a few tents .
I dragged the kayak up the beach and camped in the machair , which was a great feeling although illegal , which I realised later !
On Calgary beach
My next destination was the Treshnish Isles , Staffa and Iona ,a distance of 20 miles . There were no boats to keep me company but the solitude was ok .If possible I would land on the smallest of the treshnish Isles , the sea was flat the wind was behind me and no swell ! However approaching Carn na Burg Beg a tide race suddenly accelerated me to seven knots (a little scary) so in view of that I decided not to land !
Treshnish Isles with unexpected tide race !
Puffins appear but steer clear !
Around this area there is birdlife all around although you dont get very close before they dive ! The Treshnish Isles have a strange profile as seen in the above photo above
The distinctive outline of Staffa
It was one thirty and I had to push on to Staffa then Iona ten miles on , Staffas` distinctive outline was unmistakeable , The sea was calm with little breeze, I couldnt ask for more , anticipation was building in me . My dream of kayaking to Staffa was coming true
The tourist boat with passengers
The sight of Staffa is immediately impressive and in Victorian times many famous people visited including Queen Victoria came though she did not land .The basalt rocks have a hexagonal pillar structure .It is possible to land in very calm weather only .
The cave was calm so I could go in
By the time I got to the cave on the south side the tourists had fortunately gone , the water was calm so I decided to paddle in. Its a deep cave , maybe two hundred feet ,and the roof is sixty feet high. Its dank and scary but the water is crystal ..Suddenly the music of Mendlesohn comes to me , I dont know why ! Was I imagining it ?The tall basalt columns are reminiscent of organ pipes. I had to get to Iona and find a place to camp so I didnt land on Staffa , there was no time .
On the beach at Iona .
Landing on the beach at Iona was special and I knew its special place in the history of western Christianity. It started to belt down with rain.The cafe was the best place to shelter so after a few cups of tea it was back to the rain.There was no time to visit the Abbey .It was five thirty and I had to camp , but it was raining and heavy at that ,no good for putting up tents so I found a clean B+B and left the kayak and all the gear on the beach .Luckily there is little crime on the island so in the morning my valuable gear was all there .
I had no desire to visit the Abbey. Although its an amazing place ,its also a tourist trap and not condusive to meditation so the next day I headed along the south of Mull and back to Gallanachmore campsite near Oban.
I knew it would be a long day!
Rocks on the southwest corner of Mull
It started sunny and calm enough .The rocks caught my eye .
Landing on the beach at Iona was special and I knew its special place in the history of western Christianity. It started to belt down with rain.The cafe was the best place to shelter so after a few cups of tea it was back to the rain.There was no time to visit the Abbey .It was five thirty and I had to camp , but it was raining and heavy at that ,no good for putting up tents so I found a clean B+B and left the kayak and all the gear on the beach .Luckily there is little crime on the island so in the morning my valuable gear was all there .
I had no desire to visit the Abbey. Although its an amazing place ,its also a tourist trap and not condusive to meditation so the next day I headed along the south of Mull and back to Gallanachmore campsite near Oban.
I knew it would be a long day!
It started sunny and calm enough .The rocks caught my eye .
They are made of pink granite. Monuments in London were made from this rock .How on earth did they get it there ?Its similar to rocks in Cornwall which is also pink granite. As I paddled on the cliffs got higher until they reached huge proportions hundreds of feet high
The famous cliffs of Mull
At Carsaig I paddled past a famous cave and the Carsaig arches but there was no time to stop .I had planned things badly and thought I could get back to Oban area by ten or eleven pm with some wind help ,and using the sail .Well the sail never got used .The wind was no help and later the wind and waves picked up on my beam , the waves trying to turn the boat and slowing me .Crossing the Firth of Lorn I felt exposed , its a big place,many miles wide. Finally in pitch dark around eleven pm I entered the sound of Kerrera and was nearly run down by two trawlers. I had lights but just forgot to put them on until those trawlers got close .Arriving back at the puffin dive centre slipway at midnight was slightly surreal it was too late to put up a tent so I slept in the car. I had covered forty one miles that day in thirteen hours at a speed of 3.2mph and a total of one hundred and seven miles in four days . Time for a rest and a new kayak which steers.
